This is an amazing pic of Herb Glass with his new 36 knucklehead that he special ordered in 35 with a 33 paint job on the tank. My friend RL from South Carolina posted this pic on the AMCA facebook page. If you guys have facebook, you should go join that group. there are over 1500 amazing pics on there. It is a nice place with free exchange of thoughts and information with out any attitude or politics
Wayne's 46 is operational and mobile. We have been tweaking it and putting in break in miles on it today. I have not ridden it yet, I will take it out for a spin tomorrow. When we finish a bike, my dad takes them for test rides, comes back with a list of adjustments, we make adjustments, then do the cycle all over again. I like to wait to ride them until after my dad or somebody else runs out of suggestions, then I can ride them with a fresh perspective and ear. There usually are only half a dozen things to work on if that.
Here is a cool pic of the riveted plates for a 38 to 40 4 bolt clutch. I cleaned these nice original plates up for Jim's 38. They are primo. This is the clutch set up that you want to use if you are running a 4 bolt clutch in your bike. the earlier bikes had just steel, fiber, steel fiber etc. and they would gaul up and get sticky.
Here is the primary all buttoned up and ready for service. I am waiting on some rear fender clamps to get painted black before I mount the rear fender.
We are working on a batch of transmissions, there are two 55s, a 37, 38, and a 47.
I got the starter for Jason's 65 all cleaned up and ready to go. I am waiting on a boot for the solenoid, then I can button up the primaries and start on the exhaust!
Here is a picture of my dad teaching dan how to co ax in a hole for the main drive gear race. A couple of the transmissions that we are working on had been run with the races loose in the case, so we had to bore them out for oversize races. When the cases were cut originally, the counter bores for the seals were concentric with the hole that the race goes in, so you can usually pick the bore up off of one of those dimensions, if they are shot, then you have to get a long finger for the indicator and dial in off of the hole that the bearing sleeve presses into.
This is the 38 case for my dad's bobber. it is pretty mint. check out the early drain plug, lack of date code and mintness of the castings.
whoa.
Here is a cast iron nub that one of our friends in michigan made. we are rebuilding his 38 motor for him. He couldn't find the correct 38 oil pump, so he machined these nubs out of a big block of cast iron and modified a 39 40 pump to work on his motor.
Here is the finished product. He did a great job, once this is painted it will be almost impossible to tell that it isn't a 38 pump.
one more pic of the case for my dad's 38, the two studs that the brake light switch go on are the same length as the rest of the studs. this has always been a bit of a mystery to me. I have seen some early original cases with the studs farther out, and some with all of the same studs. Do any of you guys have any comment on this? thanks and have a great april fools day
This is an amazing pic of Herb Glass with his new 36 knucklehead that he special ordered in 35 with a 33 paint job on the tank. My friend RL from South Carolina posted this pic on the AMCA facebook page. If you guys have facebook, you should go join that group. there are over 1500 amazing pics on there. It is a nice place with free exchange of thoughts and information with out any attitude or politics
Wayne's 46 is operational and mobile. We have been tweaking it and putting in break in miles on it today. I have not ridden it yet, I will take it out for a spin tomorrow. When we finish a bike, my dad takes them for test rides, comes back with a list of adjustments, we make adjustments, then do the cycle all over again. I like to wait to ride them until after my dad or somebody else runs out of suggestions, then I can ride them with a fresh perspective and ear. There usually are only half a dozen things to work on if that.
Here is a cool pic of the riveted plates for a 38 to 40 4 bolt clutch. I cleaned these nice original plates up for Jim's 38. They are primo. This is the clutch set up that you want to use if you are running a 4 bolt clutch in your bike. the earlier bikes had just steel, fiber, steel fiber etc. and they would gaul up and get sticky.
Here is the primary all buttoned up and ready for service. I am waiting on some rear fender clamps to get painted black before I mount the rear fender.
We are working on a batch of transmissions, there are two 55s, a 37, 38, and a 47.
I got the starter for Jason's 65 all cleaned up and ready to go. I am waiting on a boot for the solenoid, then I can button up the primaries and start on the exhaust!
Here is a picture of my dad teaching dan how to co ax in a hole for the main drive gear race. A couple of the transmissions that we are working on had been run with the races loose in the case, so we had to bore them out for oversize races. When the cases were cut originally, the counter bores for the seals were concentric with the hole that the race goes in, so you can usually pick the bore up off of one of those dimensions, if they are shot, then you have to get a long finger for the indicator and dial in off of the hole that the bearing sleeve presses into.
This is the 38 case for my dad's bobber. it is pretty mint. check out the early drain plug, lack of date code and mintness of the castings.
whoa.
Here is a cast iron nub that one of our friends in michigan made. we are rebuilding his 38 motor for him. He couldn't find the correct 38 oil pump, so he machined these nubs out of a big block of cast iron and modified a 39 40 pump to work on his motor.
Here is the finished product. He did a great job, once this is painted it will be almost impossible to tell that it isn't a 38 pump.
one more pic of the case for my dad's 38, the two studs that the brake light switch go on are the same length as the rest of the studs. this has always been a bit of a mystery to me. I have seen some early original cases with the studs farther out, and some with all of the same studs. Do any of you guys have any comment on this? thanks and have a great april fools day
